If I could only tell you one thing about the French it would probably be that they love to stare, and it drives me crazy. It is not like the woman sitting diagonally on the metro even pretends to look away when I give her a dirty look. Young boys and girls and old grandparents alike have no problem looking you up and down for an uncomfortable amount of time - on the street, in the metro, in a cafe. What makes matters even worse is that if you make eye contact with your voyeur, they don't even really acknowledge you or that anything about the situation is odd. French people apparently hate to smile - they simply purse their lips or pout. At first I was a little self-consious, thinking that the French were judging me, or perhaps wondering where I'm from, or why I am not as chic as the other young women in this city (no matter how hard I try!)
Ever since I arrived in Paris, I've actively tried NOT to look like 1) an American 2) a tourist, because both are so looked down upon here. If I need to check something on my map I all but go into a dark alley so I don't give away my cover. I read french books/magazines in public places. I wear grey, black, and other dark colors even on the rare sunny day. And after realizing how much the French love to stare, I have started staring right back. It is a surprisingly satisfying change - looking at someone and not feeling obligated to respond in a friendly manner. Sometimes I slip and smile as I pass an old lady or cashier taking a cigarette break on the street outside of his store. In these situations, I am met with a glare by the old lady and usually a provocative comment, whistle, or eyebrow raise by the guy. And to be honest, neither are very appealing.
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